Author Carl – Carl Williams

Gardening & Growing Food (UK)

This hub is the “start here” page for growing food on AuthorCarl.co.uk — written for real UK gardens and real schedules. The aim is simple: fewer mistakes, better timing, and repeatable results.

Most gardening advice fails because it skips the boring bits that actually decide success: temperature, light, drainage, watering rhythm, and harvest timing. If you fix those basics, you can grow surprisingly well in the UK — even with a small patio, a few pots, or a bright windowsill.

This hub focuses on the highest-return skills and crops: chillies (warmth + harvesting), garlic (timing + curing), compost (soil improvement), and simple indoor growing (light + warmth). Use the on-page links to jump to what you need today, or scroll to the auto “All posts” list for everything in this hub.

Quick start: the UK growing framework in 6 simple rules

If you want better results without turning gardening into a second job, follow these rules. They apply to almost everything you’ll grow — in beds, pots, or a greenhouse.

  1. Drainage beats “good compost”: in the UK, waterlogged soil and constantly wet pots cause more failures than poor feeding.
  2. Light drives growth: weak light creates weak plants (leggy seedlings, slow growth, fewer flowers and fruit).
  3. Warmth sets the speed: chillies in particular stall when nights are cold. Growth is temperature-limited more than fertiliser-limited.
  4. Water on a rhythm: avoid the UK classic: soaking → drying out → soaking. Aim for consistent moisture, not permanent wetness.
  5. Feed when growth is active: feeding a stalled plant doesn’t “kickstart” it. Fix warmth/light first, then feed lightly and consistently.
  6. Harvesting is part of growing: picking too early wastes flavour. Picking too late wastes storage. Timing is the multiplier.

Fastest beginner win

Garlic is predictable and rewarding. If you get planting timing, drainage and curing right, you can store bulbs for months.

Best flavour win

Chillies reward warmth and patience. When you harvest ripe pods, the flavour jump is huge — especially for sauces.

Best “everything improves” win

Compost improves structure and moisture handling. Even basic composting makes pots and beds behave better.

If you’re growing food because you want more flavour (and less waste), pair this hub with: Fermentation & Preserving Guides. Growing and preserving together is how you get the real payoff.

UK seasonal checklist: what matters in each window

You don’t need a complicated calendar — you need the right order. Most UK growing problems happen because plants are started too late, moved out too early, or harvested at the wrong stage.

Late winter → early spring

  • Start chillies indoors (warm + bright).
  • Prioritise light for seedlings to avoid leggy growth.
  • Prepare composting: stockpile browns (cardboard/leaves) so you can balance greens.

Spring → early summer

  • Pot up chillies when roots fill the pot (not on a fixed date).
  • Move outside gradually when nights are reliably mild; shelter matters.
  • Keep garlic clean (weed-free) and water only when needed.

Late summer → autumn

  • Harvest chillies ripe (final colour depends on variety).
  • Lift garlic at the right leaf stage, then cure properly for storage.
  • Preserve surplus: dry, freeze, or ferment for flavour.

The simplest way to stay consistent: once a week, check light, water, and temperature. Once a month, check whether each plant is in the right pot size and whether growth stage has changed (seedling → vegetative → flowering/fruiting).

Chillies: the UK method for better growth and better flavour

Chillies are simple once you accept the UK reality: they’re a warm-climate plant. Success comes from starting early, providing enough light, keeping nights warm enough, and harvesting when pods are truly ripe.

The three chilli rules that matter most

  • Warmth sets the pace: if nights are cold, growth slows even if you feed heavily. Fix warmth before feeding.
  • Light prevents weak plants: weak light creates leggy seedlings and fewer flowers. Bright windows help; grow lights help more.
  • Ripeness creates flavour: the “biggest mistake” is harvesting too early. Ripe pods taste deeper and sweeter as well as hotter.

How to tell when chillies are ready to pick

  • Know the final colour for the variety: red is common but not universal (yellow/orange/chocolate/cream/purple exist).
  • Look for stability: once the pod has fully shifted and stays that colour for several days, it’s usually ready.
  • Pick for the job: green is fine for certain cooking; ripe is best for drying and sauces.

Common chilli problems (and what they usually mean)

  • Slow growth / “stalled” plants: too cool, too little light, or roots sitting wet.
  • Flowers dropping: stress from temperature swings, drought/soak cycles, or very low humidity indoors.
  • Leaf curl: often watering rhythm/drainage; sometimes pests underneath leaves.
  • Lots of leaves, few pods: light and temperature are usually the limiting factors.

When you do get a harvest, don’t waste it. Chillies are perfect for preserving — especially fermentation for sauce. See: Fermentation & Preserving Guides.

Preserve chillies the high-flavour way

Fermented chilli sauce turns surplus pods into something you’ll actually use. Starter kit →

Garlic: bigger bulbs and storage that actually works

Garlic is one of the best UK crops because it’s predictable once you follow the rules. When people get small bulbs or garlic that rots in storage, the cause is almost always one of four things: poor drainage, cramped spacing, bad harvest timing, or bad curing.

The garlic fundamentals that decide bulb size

  • Drainage first: garlic hates sitting wet. Heavy soil benefits from raised beds or improved structure.
  • Give cloves room: crowding reduces bulb size. Spacing is a “free upgrade”.
  • Feed early, not late: support leaf growth earlier; avoid pushing soft growth late in the season.
  • Weeds steal bulb size: garlic doesn’t like competition; keep the area reasonably clean.

Harvest and curing: the part that makes garlic store

Harvesting “whenever it looks big” is how you end up with small bulbs or split skins. Curing is what turns fresh garlic into stored garlic. If you rush curing, garlic often goes soft, mouldy or sprouting early. The goal is dry outer skins and a fully dried neck before storage.

Indoor growing in the UK: what actually works

Indoor growing works when you treat it like a simple system: light + warmth + drainage + rhythm. Most indoor failures are watering failures caused by low light (compost stays wet for too long).

The indoor checklist (keep it simple)

  • Light: aim for the brightest spot you have. If seedlings stretch, light is insufficient.
  • Warmth: keep chillies steady; cold nights slow growth and increase leaf drop.
  • Drainage: pots must have holes. Avoid leaving pots sitting in water.
  • Pot size progression: pot up when roots fill the pot. Too large too soon stays wet and cold.
  • Watering rhythm: water thoroughly, then allow the top layer to dry slightly before watering again.

If you ever think “this plant needs feeding”, check light and temperature first. Feeding a plant that’s stalled due to cold or weak light usually makes problems worse.

Compost basics: the version that works without obsession

Composting is not complicated. Most bad compost smells and pest issues come from the same mistake: too wet + too compacted + too many greens. A simple balanced heap is enough to improve soil structure and moisture handling — which improves almost every crop.

The simple compost framework

  • Greens: nitrogen-rich materials (veg scraps, fresh grass, coffee grounds).
  • Browns: carbon-rich materials (cardboard, dry leaves, shredded paper).
  • Moisture: damp, not soggy. If it smells, it’s usually too wet and airless.
  • Air: airflow matters more than “turning constantly”.
  • Time: compost is a process. Balance and airflow beat fiddling.

Troubleshooting: the quick diagnosis that fixes most “what’s wrong?” moments

When something looks wrong, don’t guess. Work through the likely causes in order: drainagetemperaturelightwatering rhythmpestsfeeding. Feeding is rarely the first fix.

Leaves yellowing

Often overwatering or poor drainage. Let compost dry slightly, confirm pot holes are clear, and avoid leaving pots in standing water.

Plants stalling

Usually cold nights or weak light. Warmth + light fixes more than feeding does. Check that roots aren’t sitting wet.

Pests appearing

Check the underside of leaves early. Treat quickly before populations explode, and isolate badly infested plants indoors.

Lots of leaves, little fruit

Usually light/temperature. Chillies need warmth and time. Don’t expect heavy fruiting in cool, low-light conditions.

Compost smells bad

Usually too wet and compacted. Add browns (cardboard/leaves) and improve airflow. Smell is a moisture + air signal.

Preserve what you grow (this is where the payoff is)

Growing food is satisfying. Preserving it is what makes it genuinely useful. Chillies become sauces and flakes. Surplus becomes shelf-stable food. Scraps become compost. If you want the simplest “grow → preserve” path, start with fermentation: Fermentation & Preserving Guides.

Gardening books (quick picks)

If you want full start-to-finish methods with UK-friendly timings, these are the core gardening titles.

All gardening & growing posts

Every post in this hub (newest first). To include a post here, make sure its front matter contains: tags: ["post"] and hub: "gardening-and-growing-food".

A compost bin with a mix of leaves and kitchen scraps, showing suitable compost materials

Composting for Beginners: What You Can (And Can’t) Compost

Most compost problems come from one simple mistake: adding the wrong materials, or adding the right materials in the wrong way. A healthy compost heap is basically a managed breakdown of organic matter — but it only behaves well when you balance “greens” and “browns” and avoid the few inputs that cause smells, pests and slow decomposition.

Read →

FAQ: quick answers

When are chillies ready to pick?

When the variety reaches its final ripening colour and stays stable for several days. “Ripe” isn’t always red.

Can I grow chillies outdoors in the UK?

Yes, but warmth and shelter matter. Greenhouse/polytunnel/sunny patio improves growth and ripening.

Why are my garlic bulbs small?

Usually spacing and drainage, plus harvest timing. Curing correctly is what makes garlic store.

Why do indoor seedlings go leggy?

Lack of light. Move to a brighter spot or use a grow light, and avoid overwatering in low light.

What’s the simplest composting method?

Greens + browns + air + sensible moisture. If it smells, it’s usually too wet and compacted — add browns and airflow.

What’s the best way to preserve chillies?

Fermentation is one of the best for flavour. It turns surplus pods into sauces that taste deeper than vinegar-first recipes.

Want new growing guides as they’re published? Join the Author Carl newsletter for practical tips and new releases.